Flapjacks to Foie Gras, Issue 2 - Thailand

Hi everyone. Last time we communicated we were on the Iberian Peninsula in Portugal savoring sumptuous cod fritters. Today, we’re half way around the world in Southeast Asia, on the Indo-Chinese Peninsula in exotic Thailand. Literally worlds apart.

This is the country of elephants, jungles, Buddhist temples and high rise skyscrapers. Of “The Bridge on the River Kwai” and “Anna and the King of Siam”.

I visited Thailand a few months ago and the country made a big impression on me. Before I went, to make the most of the trip, I studied Thai history, culture and the food. Today we’re going to take a look at all of this, but first, let’s focus on some geography to see just where Thailand is located. That always has an important influence on food.

A RICH HISTORY

Thailand has a rich history going back some 5000 years with archaeological sites containing evidence of the earliest rice cultivation and bronze casting in Asia – perhaps the world. Over the millennia a succession of tribal groups migrated from Southwestern China and powerful kingdoms were established by the Mon and Khmer peoples. Around the 13th century, the Tai people (different from Thai) also referred to as the Siam, trickled in from Southwest China. By the 1400’s they had combined with other groups and created the Kingdom of Siam – a name which continued until the beginning of World War II.

In the early decades of the twentieth century, Thailand’s political system, armed forces, schools and economy underwent drastic changes. Many Thai studied overseas, and a small, western-educated elite with less traditional ideas emerged. In 1932, a bloodless coup d’etat by military officers and civil servants ended the absolute monarchy and inaugurated Thailand’s constitutional era.

Thailand still maintains a figurehead monarchy – although politically powerless, it is respected and beloved. Governance is handled by a chaotic parliament which, remarkably, has managed robust growth and progress in spite of the many military coups. Political instability manifests itself in many ways as evidenced by Thailand’s 14 different constitutions over a 55-year period. This is all modern Thailand – one of the most fascinating countries I have ever visited with some of best food on the planet.

Bangkok – the capitol city of some 12 million people is a vibrant, culturally interesting, visually diverse metropolis. The city still houses spectacular century’s old Buddhist temples in the midst of countless high rise buildings. A city of canals, Bangkok is known as the Venice of the East – floating markets dot the canals and rivers selling fresh fruits, vegetables, cooked food, etc.

Contrasting with the temples and shrines, Pat Pong, the city’s thriving market for counterfeit and pirated goods of all kinds, comes alive at night. The hilarious and often raunchy t-shirts were endless and I had a good time bringing back many of these to my friends. Pat Pong is surrounded by stripper bars and massage parlors, which add to the festive atmosphere of the area.

Elephants form an important part of Thai culture and beliefs. Historically, they play an integral role in the monarchy and religion. Elephants are omnipresent in Thai arts and are prominent in Thai Buddhism, which is a significant factor in the nation’s social, cultural and political life. Not long after I arrived, I got right in the swing of things and enjoyed an elephant ride in a Bangkok suburb. Being up on top, I was in awe of the gigantic size and strength of these magnificent animals.

Interestingly, Thailand was the only Southeast Asian country never colonized by a foreign power. France controlled French Indochina (Cambodia – Vietnam – Laos) and the British colonized Singapore, Malaysia and Burma. Thailand escaped through clever negotiations and territorial cessions. Hence, Thai cuisine has remained uniquely Thai – where as, food in neighboring countries bears the influence of their colonizer.

THE FOOD

Thailand is a paradise for the exotic food connoisseur. Food flavors and aromas feature ethnic Asian ingredients and spices combined in delicious mildly and fully flavored dishes. Thai food is known for its liberal use of fresh herbs including Mint, Lemon Grass, Cilantro and different Thai Basils. Other common flavors include Ginger, Garlic, Turmeric, Peppercorn and, of course, Chilies. Additionally, Nam Pla (an aromatic strong tasting fish sauce) is used extensively in every region of the country.

Thai chili pastes (Nam Phrik) are omnipresent in Thai cuisine and similar to Indonesian and Malaysian sambals. Soy sauces, which are used in many dishes, are of Chinese origin. Rice is the staple grain of Thai cuisine, as in most Asian cultures. The world famous, sweet-smelling jasmine rice is indigenous to Thailand.

Some of my favorite Thai dishes include:

Kaeng Lang-Le – A Burmese influenced stewed pork curry, which uses peanuts, dried chilies and tamarind juice in the recipe, but no coconut milk.

Phat Kraphao – beef, pork, prawns or chicken stir fried with Thai basil, chilies and garlic.

Som Tam – grated papaya salad, pounded with a mortar and pestle, with peanuts, dried shrimp and palm sugar.

I love these dishes – along with almost everything else in Thai cuisine. That makes selecting today’s featured dish difficult, because there are so many delicious choices. Nevertheless, we’ll start with a Red Curry Pork (Gaeng Ped Moo) served with a Shredded Papaya and Crab salad (Som Tam). I think that you’ll like it.


INGREDIENTS:

All ingredients may be found at Asian markets such as Lee Lee Oriental Market (Orange Grove & La Cholla) and 17th Street Market (17th and Euclid). The following dishes comfortably feed 4-5 people.

RED PORK CURRY

• 700g (1.5 lbs) Pork tenderloin (can be substituted with chicken) chopped into bite size pieces. Trim off all fat and cartilage.

• 150 ml (5 oz.) Coconut Cream

• Two 400 ml cans of Coconut milk, 800 ml total.

• 3-5 Tablespoons Red Curry paste, depending on desired spiciness. Paste can be store bought (much easier and yields a virtually identical result) or paste can be made, (recipe for paste is at the bottom of page). Be warned that some of the ingredients for the homemade curry paste are extremely difficult to locate.

• 5 Tablespoons fish sauce

• 3 Tablespoons Palm Sugar (Regular cane sugar may be substituted)

• 280g Thai Eggplants (about 4) cut into eighths or quarters (Regular eggplant can also be substituted)

• The zest and juice of 1 lime

• 30g (1 oz.) fresh cracked pepper

• 1 cup fresh bamboo, (may use canned, but fresh bamboo has a much cleaner, richer flavor). If using fresh, rough chop.


CRAB AND SHREDDED PAPAYA SALAD

• 3 Tablespoons fish sauce

• 3 Tablespoons lime juice

• 3 Teaspoons palm sugar

• 4 Thai chilies, seeded and finely minced.

• 2 teaspoons ground/minced dried shrimp

• 300g (10 oz.) fresh crab meat (steamed or boiled), or a high quality canned crab meat, but preferably fresh.

• 30g (about 1 bundle) roughly chopped mint leaves

• 20g (about 2/3 bundle) roughly chopped cilantro leaves

• 2 shallots, minced, or thinly sliced

• 8 oz. Green Papaya

• 1 tomato, cut in half, then thinly sliced


To make dressing, mix together fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar, chilies, and dried shrimp. Whisk together until well incorporated.

JUST BEFORE SERVING, mix together crab meat, cilantro, mint, shallots, shredded papaya, and tomato and gently toss. Pour on dressing, and mix.

PREPARING AND COOKING THE CURRY

Begin with a large pan, or wok on medium heat. Pour in Coconut Cream and let simmer for 5 minutes, or until oil separates from cream. Stir if cream starts to brown around edges.

Add curry paste and stir well to combine, cook about 2 minutes or until fragrant. Add fish sauce and palm sugar and cook for 2 minutes and let mixture darken. Add pork and cook for 5 – 7 minutes, occasionally stirring.

Add coconut milk and let simmer for 5 minutes. Add Thai eggplants and pepper, let cook for another 5 minutes. Add lime and the bamboo. Let curry simmer for 20 – 25 minutes on low heat, stir occasionally.


RECIPE FOR THE RED CURRY PASTE

(Optional – if you really want to start from scratch)

Some ingredients are difficult to find, and will require extensive searching, but for you adventurous cooks looking for a challenge, here you go.
You will need:

• 3-4 dried, long, red chilies. (5 inches long)

• 8-10 fresh, small, thai chilies (about 2 inches long), seeded.

• 2 lemongrass stalks, white part only, finely sliced

• 1 inch piece of galangal, finely sliced

• 1 teaspoon lime zest

• 4-5 cloves of garlic, minced

• 3-6 Asian shallots, finely sliced. (2-3 regular shallots can be substituted)

• 5-6 coriander (cilantro) roots, finely chopped

• 2 teaspoons of shrimp paste

• 1 teaspoon ground dry coriander


Remove stems from the dried chilies and slit the chilies lengthways with a sharp knife. Discard the seeds and soak the chilies in hot water for 1 to 2 minutes or until soft. Drain and roughly chop.

Using a mortar and pestle pound the chilies, lemongrass, galangal, and lime zest into a paste. Add remaining ingredients and pound together into a smooth paste.

A food processor can also be used. Place all ingredients into processor and blend until a smooth paste is formed. Add cooking oil, as needed, to assist in the blending process.


Well, that’s it for today. It’s such fun visiting with you and sharing my passion for great food and exotic places. Thank you all so much for spending time with me.

Flapjacks to Foie Gras, Issue 1 - Portugal

Importance of History and Geography on Food

Many things impact a nation’s cuisine – in particular, its location and historical development. As for Portugal (our focus country today), it’s important to note that it is a seafaring nation. Over the centuries it was overrun several times by other Europeans, North Africans and Arabs from the Middle East. Later, Portugal became a world-wide colonial power with substantial interests in Africa and South America. All of this influenced what the Portuguese cook and eat today.

    Nestled on the southwestern coast of Europe’s Iberian Peninsula – Next to its larger neighbor, Spain – Portugal is a jewel, off the beaten path for many European tourists. With a population of about 10 million, a modest economy, and a comfortably paced lifestyle, Portugal’s once powerful naval fleet and far flung colonial possessions are distant memories. But make no mistake, tiny Portugal was a world class player in the 15th and 16th centuries. Even today, Portuguese speaking Brazil, former African colonies, Portuguese sections of India and Central America bear testament to this fact.

    Geographically, Portugal is split in two by its main river, the Tagus. To the North, the landscape is mountainous, but with fertile agricultural plateaus. The South features mostly rolling plains with a climate somewhat warmer and drier than the cooler and rainier North. This Mediterranean climate is quite similar to Northern and Southern California.

    Portugal has always looked to the oceans for its livelihood with fishing an important part of the economy. Portugal’s coastline runs for nearly 600 miles along the Atlantic with a majority of the population clustered in this coastal area, including the capitol city, Lisbon. With some two million inhabitants, Lisbon is the center of Portuguese cultural, commercial and political activities with roots going back to 800 AD during Moorish domination.

THE FOOD

Portuguese cuisine is hearty, full-flavored and bears many similarities to Mediterranean cuisine. The food is sumptuously seasoned with a wide variety of spices – many from its former colonial possessions. Saffron, Cinnamon, Vanilla, as well as black pepper and Piri Piri (small, hot chili peppers) are among the more widely used seasonings. As with most Mediterranean cuisines, olive oil is a cooking and flavoring staple. Herbs, such as parsley and coriander, plus lots of garlic, are frequently found in a variety of Portuguese dishes.

    Among the more popular everyday choices is a delicious soup, Caldo Verde, with potato, shredded Kale and chunks of Chorizo sausage. This hearty dish tastes great on a chilly day with blustery winds whipping in off the ocean. But the real staple of the Portuguese diet is seafood and fish, readily available from the country’s extensive fishing fleet. Fish is fried or deep fried, grilled, boiled (including poached and simmered), stewed (often in clay pots) or even roasted. The most commonly consumed fish in Portugal is Bacalhau (cod). Old timers claim that there are more than 365 ways to cook cod, one for every day of the year.

    I could go on and on, but I must stop now. It’s time to start with today’s specialty dish. We’ll now commence the maiden voyage on this food odyssey with this classic dish from Portugal.

Cod Fritters (Pasteis de Bacalhau)

I’ve had lots of Portuguese food – especially Bacalhau – but my favorite is the “Cod Fritters”. Centuries before refrigeration was invented, Portugal’s sizable fishing industry preserved the catch by salting and drying the fish. Because salted, dried fish (particularly cod) was the main protein available, many dishes and recipes were developed around it. For me, Cod fritters is one of the very best. It’s served as an hors d’oeuvre, snack, fast food or as a simple dinner at home with rice and veggies.

Ingredients
Makes 20 fritters
•    450g (16 oz) dried salted cod (preferably deboned)
•    600g (1lb. 4oz.) freshly peeled potatoes
•    3 eggs, separated
•    Chopped parsley, dill, sage, chives. 1 tbsp of each.
•    Nutmeg ¼ tsp
•    Pepper to taste
•    Olive oil for frying
(Bacalhau should be available at your local specialty foods store. Call in advance to make sure.)

Dill Cream Sauce
•    1 egg yolk
•    1 tbsp olive oil
•    5 tbsp sour cream
•    1 tbsp lemon juice
•    1 tbsp chopped dill
•    ½ tsp salt
•    ¼ tsp pepper

Before cooking fritters, prepare the dill cream sauce. Whisk together egg yolk, olive oil, sour cream – lemon juice, salt, pepper – and lastly, dill, after the sauce is fully beaten.

Preparing and Cooking the Fritters
1.    Desalt Cod by soaking in water for 24 hours, any longer will result in the cod being less flavorful. Change water once after 12 hours.
2.    Boil water in saucepan – Add desalted cod and potatoes. Cut potatoes into several pieces for faster cooking. Cook uncovered for 20 minutes.
3.    After 20 minutes, remove cod but continue cooking potatoes until completely done. Periodically skim foam from water surface.
4.    Remove skin from cod (and bones if not already deboned)
5.    Flake the cod and place into food processor. Break up potatoes into small pieces and place in the food processor. With the chopping blade, work mixture into a mash, be careful not to over beat. Mash will resemble a thick sticky dough.
6.    Add the egg yolks, parsley, dill, sage, chives, pepper and nutmeg. Blend until well incorporated.
7.    With an electric mixer, beat egg whites until stiff and GENTLY FOLD into the mash, be careful not to overwork the whites.
8.    Two tablespoons of the mash makes one fritter – make as round as possible – form all of the mash into fritters.
9.    Fry the fritters in ¼ inch of olive oil – turn to brown on all sides. Don’t overcook, as the fritter will lose moisture and begin to fall apart.
10.    Drain on paper towels, and serve hot with the dill cream sauce.

I think that you’ll really enjoy Bacalhau fritters – they’re delicious. But also the process of preparing, cooking and savoring this unusual dish can transport you to a seaside café in a scenic Portuguese village on a warm, lazy afternoon. Feel that gentle breeze? Smell the sumptuous food? Isn’t it nice? What a delightful, vicarious experience.