Flapjacks to Foie Gras, Issue 1 - Portugal

Importance of History and Geography on Food

Many things impact a nation’s cuisine – in particular, its location and historical development. As for Portugal (our focus country today), it’s important to note that it is a seafaring nation. Over the centuries it was overrun several times by other Europeans, North Africans and Arabs from the Middle East. Later, Portugal became a world-wide colonial power with substantial interests in Africa and South America. All of this influenced what the Portuguese cook and eat today.

    Nestled on the southwestern coast of Europe’s Iberian Peninsula – Next to its larger neighbor, Spain – Portugal is a jewel, off the beaten path for many European tourists. With a population of about 10 million, a modest economy, and a comfortably paced lifestyle, Portugal’s once powerful naval fleet and far flung colonial possessions are distant memories. But make no mistake, tiny Portugal was a world class player in the 15th and 16th centuries. Even today, Portuguese speaking Brazil, former African colonies, Portuguese sections of India and Central America bear testament to this fact.

    Geographically, Portugal is split in two by its main river, the Tagus. To the North, the landscape is mountainous, but with fertile agricultural plateaus. The South features mostly rolling plains with a climate somewhat warmer and drier than the cooler and rainier North. This Mediterranean climate is quite similar to Northern and Southern California.

    Portugal has always looked to the oceans for its livelihood with fishing an important part of the economy. Portugal’s coastline runs for nearly 600 miles along the Atlantic with a majority of the population clustered in this coastal area, including the capitol city, Lisbon. With some two million inhabitants, Lisbon is the center of Portuguese cultural, commercial and political activities with roots going back to 800 AD during Moorish domination.

THE FOOD

Portuguese cuisine is hearty, full-flavored and bears many similarities to Mediterranean cuisine. The food is sumptuously seasoned with a wide variety of spices – many from its former colonial possessions. Saffron, Cinnamon, Vanilla, as well as black pepper and Piri Piri (small, hot chili peppers) are among the more widely used seasonings. As with most Mediterranean cuisines, olive oil is a cooking and flavoring staple. Herbs, such as parsley and coriander, plus lots of garlic, are frequently found in a variety of Portuguese dishes.

    Among the more popular everyday choices is a delicious soup, Caldo Verde, with potato, shredded Kale and chunks of Chorizo sausage. This hearty dish tastes great on a chilly day with blustery winds whipping in off the ocean. But the real staple of the Portuguese diet is seafood and fish, readily available from the country’s extensive fishing fleet. Fish is fried or deep fried, grilled, boiled (including poached and simmered), stewed (often in clay pots) or even roasted. The most commonly consumed fish in Portugal is Bacalhau (cod). Old timers claim that there are more than 365 ways to cook cod, one for every day of the year.

    I could go on and on, but I must stop now. It’s time to start with today’s specialty dish. We’ll now commence the maiden voyage on this food odyssey with this classic dish from Portugal.

Cod Fritters (Pasteis de Bacalhau)

I’ve had lots of Portuguese food – especially Bacalhau – but my favorite is the “Cod Fritters”. Centuries before refrigeration was invented, Portugal’s sizable fishing industry preserved the catch by salting and drying the fish. Because salted, dried fish (particularly cod) was the main protein available, many dishes and recipes were developed around it. For me, Cod fritters is one of the very best. It’s served as an hors d’oeuvre, snack, fast food or as a simple dinner at home with rice and veggies.

Ingredients
Makes 20 fritters
•    450g (16 oz) dried salted cod (preferably deboned)
•    600g (1lb. 4oz.) freshly peeled potatoes
•    3 eggs, separated
•    Chopped parsley, dill, sage, chives. 1 tbsp of each.
•    Nutmeg ¼ tsp
•    Pepper to taste
•    Olive oil for frying
(Bacalhau should be available at your local specialty foods store. Call in advance to make sure.)

Dill Cream Sauce
•    1 egg yolk
•    1 tbsp olive oil
•    5 tbsp sour cream
•    1 tbsp lemon juice
•    1 tbsp chopped dill
•    ½ tsp salt
•    ¼ tsp pepper

Before cooking fritters, prepare the dill cream sauce. Whisk together egg yolk, olive oil, sour cream – lemon juice, salt, pepper – and lastly, dill, after the sauce is fully beaten.

Preparing and Cooking the Fritters
1.    Desalt Cod by soaking in water for 24 hours, any longer will result in the cod being less flavorful. Change water once after 12 hours.
2.    Boil water in saucepan – Add desalted cod and potatoes. Cut potatoes into several pieces for faster cooking. Cook uncovered for 20 minutes.
3.    After 20 minutes, remove cod but continue cooking potatoes until completely done. Periodically skim foam from water surface.
4.    Remove skin from cod (and bones if not already deboned)
5.    Flake the cod and place into food processor. Break up potatoes into small pieces and place in the food processor. With the chopping blade, work mixture into a mash, be careful not to over beat. Mash will resemble a thick sticky dough.
6.    Add the egg yolks, parsley, dill, sage, chives, pepper and nutmeg. Blend until well incorporated.
7.    With an electric mixer, beat egg whites until stiff and GENTLY FOLD into the mash, be careful not to overwork the whites.
8.    Two tablespoons of the mash makes one fritter – make as round as possible – form all of the mash into fritters.
9.    Fry the fritters in ¼ inch of olive oil – turn to brown on all sides. Don’t overcook, as the fritter will lose moisture and begin to fall apart.
10.    Drain on paper towels, and serve hot with the dill cream sauce.

I think that you’ll really enjoy Bacalhau fritters – they’re delicious. But also the process of preparing, cooking and savoring this unusual dish can transport you to a seaside café in a scenic Portuguese village on a warm, lazy afternoon. Feel that gentle breeze? Smell the sumptuous food? Isn’t it nice? What a delightful, vicarious experience.